Culinary Travelogue: Greece

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In ancient time the Greeks were quite devoted to gastronomic luxury and had attained some refinement in the culinary sphere. Plato and other philosophers gathered their friends and pupils for sumptuous banquets. Chefs of high refute toured the cities lecturing about the art of cooking as well as many other subjects such as medicine, geography, geometry, astrology, etc. Socrates complained because this intruded on the time available to youth for higher learning. The ancient Greek term sybarite also reveals the existence of luxury and opulence.

Turkish, Armenian and Persian have great influences in Greek cookery. Alexander the Great is said to have brought the use of spices from India. Lucullus, a Roman general born in 118 B.C., is said to have brought pheasant, cherry and peach to Rome from Greece.

Greek cooking is neither oily nor hotly seasoned. It is a richly varied cuisine of subtle flavors and seasonings. Olive oil is used extensively, even in pastries. As in most of Mediterranean area, Greek cookery is based upon the local produce of vegetables like eggplant, tomato, artichoke, onion, olives and olive oil; the catch of fish, shellfish and octopus; and to a limited extent upon meat, mainly mutton, poultry and tripe. Favorite flavorings are garlic, saffron, basil, wild marjoram, rosemary, mint and oregano. Cinnamon too often flavors meat dishes as well as pastries and puddings. Lemon juice is sprinkled generously over most dishes. It has the role of vinegar and gives a very pleasant aroma and freshness to the food. Local wines are of prime importance even more as water is scarce in many regions in this arid land.

Cheeses are made of sheep or goat milk. The three kinds of cheese most easily available in specialty food stores are feta, kasseri, and kefalotyri. Feta cheese is soft, salty white cheese made of goats’ milk. It is firmer than cottage cheese or ricotta, and although similar in flavor, it is much saltier. It crumbles easily and is frequently added to salads and in hot dishes, combined with meat, eggs or phyllo.

Kaseri cheese is creamy in color and similar to cheddar in texture and flavor, though not as runny when melted.

Kefaloteri cheese is also creamy in color. It is a hard cheese very much like Parmesan.

The Greeks are not fond of sauces. You will seldom find a sauce served with a typical Greek dish unless it consists of the drippings in which the food was cooked, nor will you find the drippings thickened with flour or cornstarch. Gravies are thickened with beaten egg and lemon juice.

The great bulk of people are poor and forced to live on a very meager diet. Soupa Avgolémono, a lemon soup, is one refuge. It is made of chicken broth, rice, eggs and lemon. Another typical soup is Cucumber Soup, which greatly resembles the cookery of other Balkan countries. Fish is often grilled and basted continuously with olive oil. As in other Balkan countries, the longtime political domination of the Turks deeply influenced cooking and eating habits. This said, Pilaf and other rice dishes are common, as well as stuffed vegetables, especially rice in vine leaves as Dolmádés, and Turkish coffee. The Turkish national pastry Baklava is a favorite among the Greeks. Mousaká is a frequent dish in the whole Balkan and Middle East. Fresh fruits, like peaches and cherries are excellent and frequent dessert. Ice creams are also notably delicious.

Lemon Soup

(Soupa Avgolémono)

Ingredients:

• 4 cups chicken broth
• 1/3 cup rice
• 2 pcs eggs
• 3 tbsp lemon juice
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Procedure:

1. Heat broth, add rice and boil until well cooked.
2. Beat eggs in a bowl. Add lemon juice, gradually and carefully stirring all the time to prevent curdling. Temper gradually by spoonfuls about 1/2 cup of broth, stirring constantly.
3. Pour tempered egg mixture into remaining broth and heat but do not boil, stirring continuously for about 5 minutes. Season with salt to taste.

Baked Fish

(Psaria Plaki)

Ingredients:

• 1kg white fish fillet
• 3 tbsp lemon juice
• 1 tbsp sea salt
• freshly ground pepper
• 2 pcs large onions, sliced
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup peeled and diced fresh tomatoes
• fresh tomatoes, sliced into rounds
• 2 pcs lemons seeded and sliced

Procedure:

1. Season fish with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Arrange in a baking dish.
2. Sauté onion, garlic and parsley in olive oil. When onions are limp, add peeled tomatoes and simmer for 5 minutes. Season to taste.
3. Cover fish with onion and tomato mixture. Arrange lemon and tomato slices on top.
4. Bake uncovered in preheated moderately hot oven, 375˚F, about 45 minutes or until fish is done.

Meat Balls With Lemon Sauce

(Youvarlakia Avgolémono)

Ingredients:

• 1/2kg ground round
• 2 tbsp chopped onion
• 1/4 cup uncooked rice
• 1/3 cup tomato paste
• 1 tbsp chopped parsley
• 1 1/2 tsp salt
• freshly ground pepper

To boil:

• 4 cups stock

Sauce:

• 4 pcs large eggs
• 2 tbsp water
• 2 tbsp stock
• juice of one lemon

Procedure:

1. Mix all the ingredients and work to a smooth mass. Heat the stock.
2. With two teaspoons, dipped in cold water, shape into small balls. Drop them into boiling stock consecutively. When through, cover and simmer for about 30 minutes.
3. Prepare Avgolémono Sauce: In top of double boiler, beat eggs and water until fluffy. Add the hot stock and gradually, add lemon juice. Stir continuously over very low heat and remove immediately when thickening starts. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
4. Drain meat balls from stock and arrange in a serving dish. Pour sauce over it.

Clam Pilaf

(Achivades Pilaf)

Ingredients:

• 1/2kg fresh clams
• 1 pc medium onion, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp butter
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 cup uncooked rice
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh tomatoes
• 1/2 tsp dried oregano
• salt and pepper to taste
• 1 1/2 cups clam broth

Procedure:

1. Sandy clams? Immerse the fresh clams in water with salt for 30 minutes. The clams will spit out the sand. Wash well. Shock clams with boiling water. Remove the meat from the shell and set aside. Strain the liquid and measure to make 1 1/2 cups clam broth. Add water if necessary. Set aside.
2. Sauté the onion in butter and olive oil until nicely browned. Add rice and allow the rice to absorb the butter and oil. Add the clams and the rest of ingredients. Bring to a boil then simmer covered for 25 minutes, or until rice is cooked.

Stuffed Aubergine

Ingredients:

• 4 pcs extra large eggplants
• 1 pc medium onion, diced
• 1 pc medium green bell pepper, diced
• 1 pc finger chili, seeded and diced finely
• 200g ground lean beef
• 200g feta cheese, sliced
• 1 clove garlic, crushed
• salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
• cayenne pepper (optional)
• extra virgin olive-oil

Procedure:

1. Halve and hollow out the eggplants and dice 100 grams of hollowed-out flesh. Mix with the rest of ingredients.
2. Stuff the eggplants with the mixture and arranged on a greased baking dish. Drizzle olive oil and bake in a preheated oven (350˚F), for about 35 minutes.

Greek Pastry Cookies

(Kourabiédes)

Kourabiédes are the national cookies of the Greeks, never missing on any festive occasion.

They are served as a token for good luck. Kourabiédes are surprisingly delectable!

Ingredients:

• 2 cups unsalted butter
• 2/3 cup sugar
• 1 pc large egg yolk
• 6 cups sifted all-purpose flour
• 1 cup finely chopped nuts
• whole cloves
• confectioners’ sugar

Procedure:

1. Cream butter and sugar, stir in egg yolk. Add flour gradually and knead well until dough is smooth. Work in nuts.
2. Roll out dough in lengths, cut in pieces and shape into balls; the size of a walnut makes about 4 dozen balls. Place on greased cookie sheets, decorate each cookie with a whole clove.
3. Bake in preheated oven (350˚F) for about 30 minutes. Coat cookies with confectioners’ sugar on all sides while still warm. Then sift more confectioners’ sugar over as they should be very well coated.

Sesame Turnovers

(Cretekia Patoutha)

Ingredients:

Dough:

• 3/4 cup olive oil
• 1/2 cup water
• juice of one lemon
• 1/2 tsp salt
• 5 tbsp sugar
• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 tsp baking powder

Filling (mix):

• 1 cup finely chopped walnuts
• 1 cup finely chopped almonds
• 1 cup sesame seeds
• 1 cup honey

To brush:

• 1 pc large beaten egg

To dip: 

• rose water (optional) and confectioners’ sugar

Procedure:

1. Mix oil, water, lemon juice, salt and sugar. Sift flour and baking powder together. Blend well gradually with oil-lemon mixture and knead to smooth dough.
2. Roll out on floured board about 1/4-inch thick. Cut into 3-inch squares.
3. Place a teaspoon of filling in center of dough. Moisten edges, fold from four corners over filling and press together to form a square. Brush with beaten egg.
4. Bake in preheated (300˚F), for about 15 minutes. While warm, dip into rose water and sprinkle with confectioners’ sugar. Makes about 3 dozen cookies.